If you ever been interested in train travel and taking a railroad journey,there are lots of rail tours, scenic train
journeys and luxury train vacations to choose from. Some of the best scenic vacations by rail and luxury train
journeys include: Canadian Rockies by train, Alaska railroad tours, Transcontinental railroad tour, American Orient
Express, The Royal Scotsman, Trans Siberian private tours, Shangri-La Express to name a few.
journeys and luxury train vacations to choose from. Some of the best scenic vacations by rail and luxury train
journeys include: Canadian Rockies by train, Alaska railroad tours, Transcontinental railroad tour, American Orient
Express, The Royal Scotsman, Trans Siberian private tours, Shangri-La Express to name a few.
| Model Train Answers |
Here are some of the answers to your model railroading questions submitted on my Model Train Help blog site
If you would like to submit detailed questions for publication go to Model Railroading Questions
If you would like to submit detailed questions for publication go to Model Railroading Questions
Question: "I only plan on having 2 locomotives on my set
and wonder if I should still put in a separate programing
track for DCC?"
Answers: Jack comments - "No, you do not have to. In dcc
track is always hot (19v) the engine gets commands via
radio directly from your controller. IUnless you have a
large layout and weak controller. DCC is design to
eliminate this problem."
Another comment - "Depending on what DCC system that
you purchase you can program on the main line. Make
sure that you don't have multiple engines on the track or
be careful that you use the correct engine numbers or
what ever you use. MRC allows you to program on both
the main line and test track."
and wonder if I should still put in a separate programing
track for DCC?"
Answers: Jack comments - "No, you do not have to. In dcc
track is always hot (19v) the engine gets commands via
radio directly from your controller. IUnless you have a
large layout and weak controller. DCC is design to
eliminate this problem."
Another comment - "Depending on what DCC system that
you purchase you can program on the main line. Make
sure that you don't have multiple engines on the track or
be careful that you use the correct engine numbers or
what ever you use. MRC allows you to program on both
the main line and test track."
Question: "I would like to know what is the difference in
code100 and code 83 track and how locomotives get there
numbers?"
Answer: A reader comments -Code 100 rail is .100 inches
high from base to running surface. Code 83 is .083 inches
high. Therefore, the difference is .017 inches.
The loco number question is more complex as there are
(at least) two different schemes:
1. In the US, the Whyte System counts the wheels of each
axle group on the loco, e.g. a wheel arrangement of
oOOOO = 2-8-0, or 'Consolidation' type; likewise,
ooOOOo = 4-6-2, or 'Pacific' type.
Other countries may use a different scheme.
2. The 'Official' number painted on each loco may depend
on the parent railroad, the assigned "class" of locomotive
and/or the order of purchase.
For example, the Denver & Rio Grande RR classified its
(Narrow Gauge) Consolidations (2-8-0) as 'C' beginning
with C-16. The Mikado (2-8-2) as 'K', beginning with K-27
and numbered from 450.
code100 and code 83 track and how locomotives get there
numbers?"
Answer: A reader comments -Code 100 rail is .100 inches
high from base to running surface. Code 83 is .083 inches
high. Therefore, the difference is .017 inches.
The loco number question is more complex as there are
(at least) two different schemes:
1. In the US, the Whyte System counts the wheels of each
axle group on the loco, e.g. a wheel arrangement of
oOOOO = 2-8-0, or 'Consolidation' type; likewise,
ooOOOo = 4-6-2, or 'Pacific' type.
Other countries may use a different scheme.
2. The 'Official' number painted on each loco may depend
on the parent railroad, the assigned "class" of locomotive
and/or the order of purchase.
For example, the Denver & Rio Grande RR classified its
(Narrow Gauge) Consolidations (2-8-0) as 'C' beginning
with C-16. The Mikado (2-8-2) as 'K', beginning with K-27
and numbered from 450.
Question: "I have a question for a model railroader who
reads your blog to answer please. I am starting to build a
board for the layout. I have 2 Lionel train sets with a few
pieces of extra track I purchased. What is the angle I may
use for elevation of the trains? What rate of elevation can
they climb? Does one of your readers know the answer?"
Answers: Gator comments - "It is my understanding that
2% incline is pretty well standard incline for all scales...I
know it works well with HO and anything steeper doesn't."
Ron replied - "Hi fellow modeller, my name is Ron and I
have been a modeller for quite a number of years. I have
often created layouts with steep gradients (as much as 70
degrees) I find that a good wire brushing ACROSS the
tracks gives the track a 'caterpillar tread' which gives the
train a good grip. I hope this helps."
Anonymous replied - "I agree with 'gator- - about 2% is
average, so as to give good working & less strain for the
loco. That said, I have an inclined section on my layout (a
bi-pass loop) that slopes up to 4%. I tend to use it only in
the downward direction, but all my loco's can quite easily
negotiate that grade, albeit: with limited sized train. Any
steeper grading limits the size of a train and if too steep,
the track looks unreal & toy-like."
reads your blog to answer please. I am starting to build a
board for the layout. I have 2 Lionel train sets with a few
pieces of extra track I purchased. What is the angle I may
use for elevation of the trains? What rate of elevation can
they climb? Does one of your readers know the answer?"
Answers: Gator comments - "It is my understanding that
2% incline is pretty well standard incline for all scales...I
know it works well with HO and anything steeper doesn't."
Ron replied - "Hi fellow modeller, my name is Ron and I
have been a modeller for quite a number of years. I have
often created layouts with steep gradients (as much as 70
degrees) I find that a good wire brushing ACROSS the
tracks gives the track a 'caterpillar tread' which gives the
train a good grip. I hope this helps."
Anonymous replied - "I agree with 'gator- - about 2% is
average, so as to give good working & less strain for the
loco. That said, I have an inclined section on my layout (a
bi-pass loop) that slopes up to 4%. I tend to use it only in
the downward direction, but all my loco's can quite easily
negotiate that grade, albeit: with limited sized train. Any
steeper grading limits the size of a train and if too steep,
the track looks unreal & toy-like."
Question: Alan asks - "I am having a lot of trouble with
smooth joints on curves where I have to make a joint in flex
track. Even if I start with a fresh piece at the beginning of
the curve I can't make it all the way around. Then there is
a goofy spot where ties have been removed and the track
is joined. I have soldered the joints with a heat sink to
prevent melting the remaining ties, but they still are not
great. Does anyone know what I should do?"
Answers: Anonymous relied - "I think your problem is you
are trying to attach flex track while still in curve. As you
attach the first piece old flex, pin it down, cut the first two
ties from the rail but not off completely. Cut just the part
that holds to the track. Take a piece of sandpaper and
sand the ties a little so the joiners can slip on the rails.
Place other flex track and trim for the joiners and rail
length. Attach flex track and pin it down. Then solder the
rail joint if you want."
Dr Pete relied - "The radius of your curve has a lot to do
with a smooth even joint. I have found that a radius of
more then 26" works well and the larger the better. Snap
track for smaller curves such as 18" or 22" is the best
answer. Another suggestion is to offset your joint. Make
one rail an inch or so longer then the other. Carefully
separate your ties from the rails,Do not break it off. If you
use a cork roadbed simply use railroad spikes (HO for
example) and carefully realign and spike the rails in place.
As you said a soldered joint rather then a fish plate also
works well. BUT it takes patience and care. You will be
pleased by smooth operation so the time spent is well
worth it."
Chuck relied - "I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM YEARS AGO
AND I CUT OFF THE INSIDE RAIL ABOUT A 1" OR MORE
TO MAKE THE OUT SIDE TRACK LINE UP WITH THE
OTHER RAIL."
Gator replied - "I have used a couple of long pieces of
flextrack on my current layout for some non-standard
curve radii (one greater than 22" and the other between
18" and 22"). Where the flex track has to have the ties
trimed out to fit the rail joiners, I carefully cut the ties out
and then when the track was in place and joined, I would
use the cut pieces to replace the ties in an appropriate
looking manner using the same adhesive to put them in
place as I used to put the track in place with (bathroom tile
caulk is what I use). It takes a little bit of extra time but it
can fill in an empty spot and after the ballast id put down
you can not tell the ties were ever missing."
The Engineer replied - "Hey Alan: What I find to be most
helpful to eliminate the kinking and track gauge issue of
making a joint in the middle of a corner is to solder the
track in its natural straight (unstressed) position that way
when you lay the track it will flow like a one long piece of
ribbon rail."
smooth joints on curves where I have to make a joint in flex
track. Even if I start with a fresh piece at the beginning of
the curve I can't make it all the way around. Then there is
a goofy spot where ties have been removed and the track
is joined. I have soldered the joints with a heat sink to
prevent melting the remaining ties, but they still are not
great. Does anyone know what I should do?"
Answers: Anonymous relied - "I think your problem is you
are trying to attach flex track while still in curve. As you
attach the first piece old flex, pin it down, cut the first two
ties from the rail but not off completely. Cut just the part
that holds to the track. Take a piece of sandpaper and
sand the ties a little so the joiners can slip on the rails.
Place other flex track and trim for the joiners and rail
length. Attach flex track and pin it down. Then solder the
rail joint if you want."
Dr Pete relied - "The radius of your curve has a lot to do
with a smooth even joint. I have found that a radius of
more then 26" works well and the larger the better. Snap
track for smaller curves such as 18" or 22" is the best
answer. Another suggestion is to offset your joint. Make
one rail an inch or so longer then the other. Carefully
separate your ties from the rails,Do not break it off. If you
use a cork roadbed simply use railroad spikes (HO for
example) and carefully realign and spike the rails in place.
As you said a soldered joint rather then a fish plate also
works well. BUT it takes patience and care. You will be
pleased by smooth operation so the time spent is well
worth it."
Chuck relied - "I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM YEARS AGO
AND I CUT OFF THE INSIDE RAIL ABOUT A 1" OR MORE
TO MAKE THE OUT SIDE TRACK LINE UP WITH THE
OTHER RAIL."
Gator replied - "I have used a couple of long pieces of
flextrack on my current layout for some non-standard
curve radii (one greater than 22" and the other between
18" and 22"). Where the flex track has to have the ties
trimed out to fit the rail joiners, I carefully cut the ties out
and then when the track was in place and joined, I would
use the cut pieces to replace the ties in an appropriate
looking manner using the same adhesive to put them in
place as I used to put the track in place with (bathroom tile
caulk is what I use). It takes a little bit of extra time but it
can fill in an empty spot and after the ballast id put down
you can not tell the ties were ever missing."
The Engineer replied - "Hey Alan: What I find to be most
helpful to eliminate the kinking and track gauge issue of
making a joint in the middle of a corner is to solder the
track in its natural straight (unstressed) position that way
when you lay the track it will flow like a one long piece of
ribbon rail."
Question: Steve asked - "I am currently planning a layout
of 33ft x 14ft. As there will be a fair number of trains
running at the same time, I want to keep the noise level of
the track down as much as possible. Can you suggest
what material I should build the base board out of. I was
thinking of foam but will that keep the noise and vibration
down compared to plywood or is there a better way.
Thanks"
Answer: Mark replied - "Most articles I read the builders
use 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch plywood covered with the thicker
blue or pink foam insulation. They claim the white beaded
foam is to messy. Finally they glue cork down on top of the
foam. Myself I do the same as above using 1/2 inch
plywood for more stability. I don't know if the 1/2 inch is
actually needed or not but I feel better using it and my
railroad is not meant to be transported to shows etc. So
weight is not an issue. The cork on top of the foam should
also help tone down the noise quite a lot and give you that
realistic profile of a mainline. Also if your engines are
sound equipped you may want to keep the sound at a
minimum since you intend to run several trains at once
otherwise it may become somewhat annoying *so they say*
Hope this helps a little!...Mark"
Question: Zac asked - "I'm in the essential planning
phase of my HO layout. I have got 10'x7.5' to work with. I
am wanting to do a large mountain with 2 tunnels and a
bridge on one side. I could go on and on with plans. I
would be interested in getting feedback and ideas from
your readers to help me plan my layout. Thanks Zac"
Answers: Bill replied - "I have seen mountains like you
want on sites on the Internet. Most seem to build and then
fill in after with styrofoam and crackfill this worked for me ]
also with a big project like yours consider having the
mountain in sections to allow easy access. Good Luck."
Rick replied - "A large mountain in the space you have will
be a challenge; however, it can be done. I'll be doing
something similar in that it will be "half a mountain". It will
be about a 60% angle from the base of the mountain to
the backdrop. I used a printed mountain picture on the
backdrop to "continue" the mountain into the distance.
Hope this helps. Rick."
of 33ft x 14ft. As there will be a fair number of trains
running at the same time, I want to keep the noise level of
the track down as much as possible. Can you suggest
what material I should build the base board out of. I was
thinking of foam but will that keep the noise and vibration
down compared to plywood or is there a better way.
Thanks"
Answer: Mark replied - "Most articles I read the builders
use 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch plywood covered with the thicker
blue or pink foam insulation. They claim the white beaded
foam is to messy. Finally they glue cork down on top of the
foam. Myself I do the same as above using 1/2 inch
plywood for more stability. I don't know if the 1/2 inch is
actually needed or not but I feel better using it and my
railroad is not meant to be transported to shows etc. So
weight is not an issue. The cork on top of the foam should
also help tone down the noise quite a lot and give you that
realistic profile of a mainline. Also if your engines are
sound equipped you may want to keep the sound at a
minimum since you intend to run several trains at once
otherwise it may become somewhat annoying *so they say*
Hope this helps a little!...Mark"
Question: Zac asked - "I'm in the essential planning
phase of my HO layout. I have got 10'x7.5' to work with. I
am wanting to do a large mountain with 2 tunnels and a
bridge on one side. I could go on and on with plans. I
would be interested in getting feedback and ideas from
your readers to help me plan my layout. Thanks Zac"
Answers: Bill replied - "I have seen mountains like you
want on sites on the Internet. Most seem to build and then
fill in after with styrofoam and crackfill this worked for me ]
also with a big project like yours consider having the
mountain in sections to allow easy access. Good Luck."
Rick replied - "A large mountain in the space you have will
be a challenge; however, it can be done. I'll be doing
something similar in that it will be "half a mountain". It will
be about a 60% angle from the base of the mountain to
the backdrop. I used a printed mountain picture on the
backdrop to "continue" the mountain into the distance.
Hope this helps. Rick."
Question: Cal asked - "I would like to put up a curved
backdrop to be paintable as sky & clouds. Where can I find
a roll of cardstock about 36" high that will work? I need
about 50' roll. Is there something better to use?"
Answer: Anonymous replied - "You could use 2-3mm ply
or MDF. It will have less tendency to droop if it gets damp
but will follow a curve in the same way."
Question: Doug asked - "What do I have to do, or is it
even possible, to run a RailKing Proto Sound II DCS
engine on Lionel setup using TMCC. If not, can the reverse
work - in other words, if I purchase the Railking DCS will
Lionel TMCC trains run on that system? Can one of your
readers please help me."
Answer: Anonymous replied - "Yes, The opposite is true.
You need to get the MTH (Rail King) DCS system and it will
run all of your Lionel TMCC items just fine. But Lionel,
even the new Legacy system, will not run MTH PS-2
products."
Question: Colin asked - "What is the best and easiest way
of making a good joint on N gauge flexi track and set track.
I have noticed if you undo a joint the fishplates spread to
much to rejoin and make a good contact."
Answer: Anonymous replied - "The fish plates are being
opened up by the burr left after cutting the flexitrack. Be
sure to file this off paying particular attention to the rail
sides as it is this area that normally opens up the fish
plate. If your fish plates have opened out at the top then
the side burr is the cause. A burr on the rail base normally
makes it difficult/impossible to get the fish plate on in the
first place."
backdrop to be paintable as sky & clouds. Where can I find
a roll of cardstock about 36" high that will work? I need
about 50' roll. Is there something better to use?"
Answer: Anonymous replied - "You could use 2-3mm ply
or MDF. It will have less tendency to droop if it gets damp
but will follow a curve in the same way."
Question: Doug asked - "What do I have to do, or is it
even possible, to run a RailKing Proto Sound II DCS
engine on Lionel setup using TMCC. If not, can the reverse
work - in other words, if I purchase the Railking DCS will
Lionel TMCC trains run on that system? Can one of your
readers please help me."
Answer: Anonymous replied - "Yes, The opposite is true.
You need to get the MTH (Rail King) DCS system and it will
run all of your Lionel TMCC items just fine. But Lionel,
even the new Legacy system, will not run MTH PS-2
products."
Question: Colin asked - "What is the best and easiest way
of making a good joint on N gauge flexi track and set track.
I have noticed if you undo a joint the fishplates spread to
much to rejoin and make a good contact."
Answer: Anonymous replied - "The fish plates are being
opened up by the burr left after cutting the flexitrack. Be
sure to file this off paying particular attention to the rail
sides as it is this area that normally opens up the fish
plate. If your fish plates have opened out at the top then
the side burr is the cause. A burr on the rail base normally
makes it difficult/impossible to get the fish plate on in the
first place."
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